28 de octubre

"same same", como dicen aqui, y las dificultades que tenemos para movernos, casi todas inutiles, se las debemos al gobierno de mierda de esta falsa republica popular y comunista que no es ni republica, ni popular, ni comunista (me acorde de la uag, no se porque). pero en fin, todo vale la pena, y mucho mejor que el viaje organizado en "land-cruiser" que te lleva de un lugar a otro comfortablemente inmune a la realidad tibetana, con el chofer que espera fumando mientras los turistas toman las fotos de rigor antes de volverse a subir a su capsulita que los tibetanos simplemente ven pasar en una nube de polvo por la carretera.

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C F G C
One more night, the stars are in sight but tonight I'm as lonesome as can be F G C F G G
Oh the moon is shinin' bright, lighting everything in sight
C F G C
But tonight, no light will shine on me
C
Oh it's shameful and it's sad, I lost the only pal I had
C F G C
I just could not be what she wanted me to be
C F G C F G G
I will turn my head up high, to that dark and rollin' sky
C F G C
But tonight, no light will shine on me
G F C Dm
I was so mistaken when I thought that she'd be true
C Em F G
I had no idea what a woman in love would do!
One more night the moon is shinin' bright
and the wind blows high above the trees
Oh, I mis my darlin' so, I did'nt mean to see her go
but tonight, no light will shine on me
(lead break) G F C Dm C Em F G
One more night the moon is shinin' bright
and the wind blows high above the trees
Oh, I miss that woman so, I did'nt mean to see her go
But tonight, no light will shine on me...


listen to dylan's nashville skyline as we roll across the tibetan high sierra on a packed bus. outside it is just like arizona except for everest and cho oyu and all the other beauties that loom towering the distant horizon of magic land. all is frozen: my feet are frozen, and the ground, the air, and everything in between is frozen. this traveling on your own in tibet is incredibly rough, and especially now that winter is here, where winters begin early and last long.
so now i dream of a warm nepali village across the border with the smell of sweet incense, and spicy chai masala, and the bollywood music in the air, as the bus slowly takes us down the dirt road from tingri to nyalam, which in tibetan means "the gateway to hell", probably because beyond there is the tropical warmth of the indian subcontinent.
i get off the bus 11 kms before nyalam, at the small village of gangka, to pay my respects to the great sage milarepa, who meditated in a cave here, for 26 years, feeding only on ivy (until he turned green). i know this will mean walking the remaining 11 kms to nyalam but i don't mind, it's my kora to his memory.

* * *

a ver a milarepa fui solo, porque jari tenia que salir de china hoy que se le acababa su visa, pero cuando llegue a nyalam ahi estaba, desconsolado porque no habia encontrado a nadie que lo llevara los 30 kms que faltan hasta la frontera... pero parece que se toma su situacion de ilegal en china con filosofia. hoy despues de cenar, tomandonos una cerveza en el cuarto helado del hotel kailash me dijo muy serio, al estilo kaurismaki: "so much troubles, but we are laughing so much".